Bracing myself for the blast of cold air about to enter the apartment, I open the first window and set the candles up on the outside ledge. One by one I light the candles, not truly understanding the tradition, but feeling the magic of it nonetheless. Magic is quickly replaced by cold though, so I hurry to light them all and shut the window before moving on to the next.
Today marks the third day of La Fête des Lumières, “The Light Festival” in Lyon. “Travel every weekend you want, but you must stay in Lyon for La Fête des Lumières!” My host family had told me (en Français, of course.) So I did, and I do not regret it one bit.
Thursday through Sunday each year on the weekend of the 8th of December, La Fête des Lumières rolls into town. There’s two whole weeks of prep, and then when Thursday comes along the whole city changes. There’s light spectacles, music, street food (the crêpes make me drool they’re so good!) and of course, the tourists.
Over 4 million people crowd into our town to view the spectacles each year, and they keep coming back. Why? Because each year they are unique, and each year they find new ways to take your breath away. If you want to visit Lyon, I definitely recommend coming during La Fête des Lumières, but also, I highly recommend coming at the beginning of the week and not just for La Fête. You’ll see a good majority of the non-video lights at the beginning of the week, plus there’s way less crowds, and Lyon has a lot to offer.
If you like history, you can visit the Musée Gallo-Romain and learn all about the Roman influences in Lyon. If you like art then you can easily spend a whole day in the Musée des Beaux-Arts. If you like a mix of everything, then you have to visit my favorite museum, the Musée de Confluences where you can find space age information, national history/archaeological findings, a great exhibit on poison, you name it.
However, I do have to give the tourists some credit. La Fête des Lumières is truly a sight to behold. No photo does it justice, no video either… it’s truly something you have to be there to see, and yesterday was the most magical part of La Fête.
Yesterday was the 8th of December. The celebration of the Light Festival traces back centuries, specifically 1643. It started as a celebration to the Virgin Mary for saving Lyon from the Plague after they promised to make tribute to her if she saved them. Each year on the 8th of December the Lyonnaises would light lanterns and candles by the Basilica in Fourvière, a neighborhood in Lyon. However, in 1852, a huge storm struck Lyon and they were unable to light any lanterns to pay tribute to Mary. Instead of canceling the celebration, everyone in Lyon went to their house and lit a candle in their window facing the street so that they could still pay tribute to her. That tradition has stuck, and ever since, rain or shine, at 8pm on the 8th of December everyone lights candles in their street-side windows, and that’s just what I did.
Nowadays, the festival has turned away from just being a tribute to Mary, but also being a celebration of Christmas, loved ones, and life. No matter the age, you’ll find people wandering in the streets all night to watch the lights and spend time with their loved ones.
Traveling Ingénue 